Monday, September 1, 2008

Precip

Alpine country is constantly hidden in the fog. The clouds condense onto the vegetation on the mountains. This vegetation is always draped over the trail. I'm always walking through these plants. My legs get soaked, which then drip into my shoes. My feet are soaked. This is the tune that keeps playing that I'm growing used to in the Pacific Northwest.

Although the past week or so haven't been very rewarding in terms of views when I'm up high, when I'm down low under the canopy of trees, the constant moisture has proven to be absolutely beautiful. Trees growing on dead nursing trees. Moss on everything. Ferns everywhere. Massive trees. Green slugs.

END OF THE PCT

Leaving Skykomish toward the end of the thunderstorm was a good thing. Just out of town, we all got wet and cold though, and hiked a really really fast 29 miles so we could hide in our tents from the moisture inside our warm down bags. The next day turned into a really rewarding one, a day that started with snow! On the climb up, it started to snow, and this gave everything up high a really pretty look that the marmots were whistling to. Views opened up, and I was surprised at how unique the mountains were. They looked similar to southern california, but very very high up. Large mountains, bigger valleys, and fun hiking under clouds that were starting to break up.

We hiked a bit faster than planned, and wound up in a bus headed into the town of Stehekin just as the rain was coming down. This town turned into one of the best towns I've ever seen. No roads enter this town other than a 10 mile dead end road that runs from the mountains to the town. Huge mountains dump into a beautiful lake that the town is based around. The bakery had some fantastic day-old pastries for 2.25. Naturally I took advantage of the free intown camping as well as the showers for $.50 to offset my FANTASTIC $17 italian dinner.

Once we left Stehekin the weather got bad again, and never really improved. A group of 7 of us made it past the trail magic of beer to camp together at Rainy Pass. The next day we all got split up. A 30 mile day had us camping at Hart's Pass, and the next morning we stumbled upon a yurt in the mist. We had heard rumors of a yurt that we could use, but couldn't believe it when we found this yurt down in the valley full of fog. Truant, Sweetfish, and I were all soaking wet and cold, and the yurt was a dream come true. It was complete with mountaineering magazines, futons, beds, and even a pair of kitchen gloves for Sweetfish to keep his hands dry. We stayed for an hour, and then finally forced ourselves back into the fog.

That final day on the PCT we all had fun together knowing that it would be the final day we would be hiking with each other. We took a long break sitting on a huge log at Holman Pass where I would turn west the next day. I figured the border was about 20 minutes away when I rounded a turn and suddenly saw a huge gap in the forest, the border. There is a huge line of missing trees which defines the border between the US and Canadia. The ending of this trail was the complete opposite of the AT, where we had been staring at Katahdin for days, and then were looking at the peak for miles as we were climbing up. I was so shocked to be done with the PCT that I'm still stunned. That night the 3 of us had a great time camping .2 miles into Canada while our other friends went down 7 miles ahead of us into the resort because they were wet and cold.

HEADED WEST

The next morning was sad leaving Truant and Sweetfish, but once I got moving I was inspired to be alone. Still, I spent the entire day thinking back to good memories of the PCT and missing their company. Of course the views were still in the fog and I was soaked, but around 1:00, the sun started to break through and I could see into some distant valleys in the Pasaytan
Wilderness.

I took a long break at Holman Pass, the point 17 mi south of the border where I would be leaving the PCT for the PNT. Once I turned onto the PNT I was stunned to find a ziploc with a piece of paper labeled 'Eric J Payne'. Once I opened it, I found an encouraging note and a pack of M&Ms from my friend Lost. A great surprise that really put me into a good mood to start the climb up to Sky Pilot Pass. Immediately I could tell that the trail was tougher than the PCT. This hasn't changed much to this day.

I'd say that the PNT reminds me of the climbs of the AT, except with switchbacks to show exactly how steep the mtns really are, the moisture and undergrowth of the Eagle Creek Trail, and the views and valleys of the Glacier Peak Wilderness. A lot of the junctions aren't labeled, keeping me on my toes with map and digital compass. There have been some really fun stream crossings on fallen logs. Following blue ribbons in the trees. Not many people out there.

I made it into the town of Glacier last night after an IMMEDIATE pick up when hitching in a VW van with a dude listening to Rage Against the Machine. There was a spot on top of moss begging for me to set up my tarp on it hidden behind the Forest Service office. The italian joint supplied me with handmade spinach ravioli in a creamy walnut sauce and the general store hooked up a 6.99 22 oz of Stone Bitter Chocolate Oatmeal Stout which I enjoyed while writing in my journal sitting on a picnic bench near my camp. This morning I got a few baked books from the 'Wake n Bakery' with some great organic coffee. Boredom took over and I decided to hitch into the next town over, Maple Falls, which promised not much more than a gas station/coffee shop with hopefully a better newspaper selection than the Bellingham Gazette. I got picked up by a couple who offered me a place to stay in Bellingham, a city I had planned on visiting. Now I've got internet and relaxation before taking a $.75 bus to Kendall, which will put me 15 miles west of Glacier to pick up my mail drop tomorrow when the PO FINALLY opens at 2:15. whew.

Huge glaciers. Waterfalls on par with the High Sierra. Green, green, green. Fog. And now Ive got a mediocre camera to capture it all, and maybe I'll keep uploading photos for all of my 'fans'. Haha. Next update will probably be in Anacortes where I'll take a half day off.

5 comments:

Anonymous said...

Huge Congrats! I'm so very proud of you.

If you need anything, drop me a line!

Enjoy the rest of your hike and take care.

samh said...

> 22 oz of Stone Bitter Chocolate Oatmeal Stout

That sounds like the perfect way to enjoy some journaling.

Anonymous said...

What is Stone Bitter Chocolate Oatmeal Stout? Is it chocolate, oatmeal, bitter or stout? Sounds like it would make an intrigueing stout! Nice one though Beat on finishing the PCT, sounds like the PNT is beautiful, your making me tempted to add it on to the end of the PCT, I'd need to get a wriggle on though as I'm only giving myself 5 months too, enjoy the remainder of your trip!

Anonymous said...

Heresay . . . a Big Congrats on the PCT and I'm stoked on your PNT hike man! Soundz like it's off to a good start! P.O.D. and I hit the Canadian Border on the 4th and are already back in Seattle. Look for a maildrop in Forks. Cactus to Coast forums is awesome. Keep up the good work. -Disco

Anonymous said...

OMG I WISH I COULD BE AN ENLIGHTENED ULTRA-ADVENTURER TOOOOO!!11!!1!#$^#@!!